Dates: 13JAN-15JAN2026
Locations Visited: Varanasi, India
If you would like to read an overall summary of my India trip, refer to the beginning of my first blog post at: https://tofuscramble.blog/2026/01/12/traceys-india-trip-part-1-of-3-where-beauty-and-chaos-collide/
Summary: Due to a flight cancellation from Jaipur, our group pivoted and drove back to Delhi on our tour bus and then took a quick flight from Delhi to Varanasi. Varanasi, which is situated on the banks of the Ganges (pronounced locally as GUNG-ah, not GAN-jeez) River, is the spiritual capital of India and one of the world’s oldest continually inhabited cities. Varanasi is located in the northern part of India roughly halfway between Delhi and Kolkata. We were fortunate to be visiting on January 14th, which was Makar Sankranti, a twice a year festival. This festival was when the sun transitioned into the zodiac sign of Makara (e.g., Capricorn) which signified the end of the winter solstice and the beginning of the harvest season. Thousands of Hindu devotees traveled to Varanasi to take an early morning ritual holy dip in the Ganges River. Additionally, Varanasi is known for its fine silks but also for its outdoor crematorium, Manikarnika Ghat, located on the banks of the Ganges River. As a long-time hospice volunteer and someone who has done a fair amount of reading about death and dying, including as it relates to other cultures, I was fascinated about this deeply symbolic tradition of cremation which I witnessed. Varanasi was my favorite stop on my India trip and I wished I could have spent several more days there as it was a street photographers dream.
Leaving Jaipur via bus enroute to Delhi, the pollution remained in the unhealthy level. Local burning of garbage and cow dung in towns along with polluting manufacturing plants along the highway added to the toxic haze of the morning air. I was still wearing an N95 mask as much as possible, but I was not aware how bad the pollution would be everywhere in India and therefore I did not bring enough masks (i.e. one for each day) with me. 
Varanasi: Hindu devotees arriving at the Ganges River for their holy dip gave rice and lentils to the underprivileged people
in the hopes that their donations would bring good fortune and earn them spiritual merit.
Varanasi: We visited during Makar Sankranti and this day specifically is considered one of the most favorable times for charity, as it is believed that acts of kindness performed during this transition of the sun yield additional spiritual blessings. These men were cooking food which was served to the underprivileged. 
Varanasi: My first view of the Ganges River after descending down the ghat (steps) in preparation for our early morning boat ride. There was already a lot of activity on the river. 
Varanasi: This is a photo of our captain from our early morning boat ride along the Ganges River. The captain used the cord for the throttle and his other hand on a long tiller for steering. He was a pro and it was a very relaxing boat ride in this small traditional wooden boat. 
Varanasi: It was a beautiful and very peaceful boat ride along the Ganges River at about 7 AM. The water was calm and the the rising sun cast everything in lovely shades of pink and peach. 
Varanasi: We took an early morning boat ride along the Ganges River to witness the Hindu devotees taking their ritual dips in the Ganges River. The smoke from the main outdoor crematorium called Manikarnika Ghat can be seen in the distance. 
Varanasi: There are many different types of boats on the Ganges River including these hand rowed dinghies. 
Varanasi: The main crematorium is Manikarnika Ghat and it is considered the holiest cremation ground in Hinduism. It is one of the few places in the world where funeral pyres burn 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. There are between 100-200 cremations per day. Notice the numerous large stacks of wood in the photo used for the cremations. A typical cremation requires about 660–880 lbs of firewood. 
Varanasi: In traditional Hindu custom, the male relatives—typically sons, brothers, or husbands—carry the deceased to the ghat on a bamboo stretcher. 
Varanasi: The principal mourner is the eldest son, who usually undergoes a ritual head shaving and takes the lead in lighting the funeral pyre. Traditionally, women have been prohibited from attending the actual cremation to prevent the ritual from becoming overly emotional, which is believed to hinder the soul’s detachment. 
Varanasi: A sacred eternal fire, the Akhand Dhuni, is said to have burned for centuries. All funeral pyres at the ghat are lit using a flame from this central altar. 
Varanasi: The process officially begins when the principal mourner circles the funeral pyre five times (which represents the five elements of earth, water, fire, air and ether/space) and lights it using the eternal flame called the Akhand Dhuni. Towards the end of the burning, the “rite of the skull” is performed, where the skull is ritually pierced with a bamboo stick to signify the soul’s final release from the body. 
Varanasi: Once the fire has naturally burned down, the remaining ashes and fragments are collected (usually in small pots) and dispersed into the Ganges River. 
Varanasi: The final step of the cremation ritual is the immersion of the bones and ashes into the Ganges River. This symbolizes the return of the physical body to the five elements. It is believed that as soon as the ashes touch the holy water of the river, the soul is purified and granted liberation. 
Varanasi: People from across India travel long distances to Varanasi specifically for these last rites. Some elderly individuals choose to spend their final days in nearby “hospices” or boarding homes, waiting to die in this holy city. 
Varanasi: While families bring their loved ones, the actual handling of the cremation is the hereditary responsibility of the Dom community. The Doms are the only ones authorized to manage the pyres and maintain the Akhand Dhuni (eternal flame), which is used to light every funeral fire. They are also responsible for weighing the firewood, arrange the pyre, and oversee the burning process. It is a centuries-old right of the Dom family to sift through the remaining ashes at the river’s edge. They search for gold or silver jewelry (from nose rings or dental fillings) that survived the fire and these “reclaimed” metals are considered their traditional payment for the cremation services. 
Varanasi: Because thousands of cremations happen annually, the accumulation of ash and unburnt wood is a significant environmental concern. To address this, the Indian government has installed electric and gas crematoriums in Varanasi, though many families still prefer the traditional wood pyre for its spiritual merit. 
Varanasi: Varanasi is home to 84 ghats. These stone steps stretch for 4 miles along the western bank of the Ganges River. The number 84 represents the 84,000,000 species of life in Hindu mythology. During the festival of Makar Sankranti, approximately 1 million people come to Varanasi for their ritual dip in the Ganges River. 
Varanasi: The ritual dip in the Ganges, known as Ganga Snan, is a cornerstone of Hindu tradition in Varanasi, believed to purify both body and soul and liberate one from the cycle of rebirth. For many devotees, it is a lifelong goal to immerse themselves in these sacred waters at least once in their lifetime. Ritual baths are most powerful at sunrise, often performed before breaking the previous night’s fast. Devotees typically submerge their entire body multiple times, often while chanting mantras like the Surya Mantra.
Also, note the red buoys which are placed near the 84 ghats to delineate safe areas for ritual dips. They serve as a physical and visual warning to prevent devotees from accidentally crossing into deep, dangerous sections of the river where currents are stronger as many Indians do not know how to swim.
Varanasi: Surya Puja is the worship of the Sun God, Surya, who is revered in the Hindi religion and is the only visible manifestation of God that can be seen everyday. In Varanasi, this practice is a central part of daily life and reached its peak during Makar Sankranti festival on January 14th. 
Varanasi: Women often bathe in the Ganges to pray for fertility or the birth of a son. When taking a dip, women remain fully clothed in their saris. The fuchsia colored structures are the women’s changing rooms which are used after completing their dip. Men perform their dip naked, in their shorts or underwear or wearing a traditional cloth wrapped around their waist called a dhoti. 
Varanasi: Typical street life in Varanasi with many street side markets. Varanasi is the holiest of the seven sacred cities in Hinduism. It is believed to be the home of Lord Shiva, who according to mythology, founded the city in 1100–1200 BC. Varanasi is located in Northern India at the halfway point between Delhi and Kolkata. 
Varanasi: More electric wire tangles that would be an electrician’s nightmare. The “Wireless” Project completed in 2018 involved moving 1,500 km of cables underground across a 16 sq-km section of the city. This tangle problem continues in other parts of the city and also in areas where service does not meet demand due to rapid growth and expansion in this city of 2 million people. Tangling live wires causes frequent short circuits and fires, especially during the monsoon season. In addition it causes up to a 40% transmission loss and remains a significant issue for much of India. 
Varanasi: The ancient caste system still remains visible today. The term Dalit (meaning “broken”) refers to those individuals traditionally placed at the bottom the Hindu varna/caste system. Historically labeled as “untouchables,” they were relegated to jobs considered spiritually “polluting,” such as manual scavenging, leather work, and handling the dead. The Dom Commuinity in Varanasi are a specific Dalit sub-caste who serve as the “custodians of the dead” at the famous outdoor crematoriums. Many of these Doms live in segregated, makeshift housing directly adjacent to the burning funeral pyres with perpetual severe air pollution. The Dalits continue to face significant social ostracism and they live in segregated areas in extreme poverty. 
Varanasi: This photo is of a Hindu holy man, known as a Sadhu, standing on the banks of the Ganges River. Sadhus are ascetics who have renounced worldly life to pursue spiritual liberation, they wander throughout India and live on the fringes of society. These individuals often practice strict self-discipline of fasting, celibacy, poverty, and solitary meditation and renounce material comforts in order to achieve spiritual enlightenment. 
Varanasi: Varanasi is known for its fine silk textiles which are hand-woven and crafted on manual looms by skilled artisans. It can take anywhere from 15 days to six months to complete a single silk piece. The Varanasi silk is considered one of the most luxurious silks in India. 
Varanasi: The Varanasi Ropeway was in the final stages of completion during my visit and it is scheduled to be functional in July, 2026. This project aims to bypass Varanasi’s heavy road congestion by moving people above the city’s narrow street which will reduce a typical 45-60 minute commute to just 15 minutes. When completed, the route will span 3.75 kilometers and have ~150 Swiss-engineered gondolas each holding 10 people. 
Varanasi: The New Vishwanath Temple (or locally known as VT) is a Hindu temple located at Banaras Hindu University (BHU). It has the tallest temple tower in the world. 
Varanasi: Located about 10 km NE of Varanasi, Sarnath is where the Buddha gave his very first sermon, making it the birthplace of Buddhism as a global religion. Its ancient ruins and towering stupas (a sacred hemispherical Buddhist monument designed for meditation) have drawn pilgrims and travelers for over 2,500 years and it is one of the most sacred Buddhist pilgrimage sites in the world. 
Varanasi: Kite flying on Makar Sankranti is a deeply rooted tradition in India, particularly in Varanasi. This festival is dedicated to the Sun God, Surya. Flying kites is seen as a way to express gratitude to the sun for its life-giving energy. Many believe the soaring kites acts as a signal to “awaken” the gods from their six-month winter sleep. 
Varanasi: It is said the kites represents the human soul, while the strings represents the eternal bond with God. The festival turns rooftops into vibrant social places where families and neighbors gather to share food and participate in friendly “kite wars”. During my visit, the sky was full of kites in every direction I looked. 
Varanasi: At Namo Ghat, the sculpture depicting 3 hands joined in the traditional Indian greeting of namaste is said to represent the city’s spirit of hospitality and spiritual reverence. The two larger hands which stand 25 feet tall are folded in salutation to the Sun God (Surya) and the one smaller hand which stands at 15 feet tall is positioned to greet the holy Ganges River. The finished sculpture was inaugurated in 2024.
Also on this ghat (but not pictured) was a floating compressed natural gas (CNG) station which can be used fuel the city’s boats. This was developed to help reduce pollution from traditional gas/diesel motors on the Ganges River.
Varanasi: The Ganga Aarti was the centerpiece of the Makar Sankranti celebrations during my visit on January 14th. We took a traditional Bajra boat (a large, traditional two-story wooden boat used for a premium, leisurely experience on the Ganges River and historically used by the North Indian royalty). All of the boats jammed together in a massive floating pile at the main event at Dashashwamedh Ghat. 
Varanasi: This is another one of my favorite photos from my trip. This photo was taken from our boat while witnessing Ganga Aarti and I particularly liked the smiles and joy these 3 men emanated. The markings on their foreheads are known as tilak and it is a sacred and symbolic mark worn by Hindus. The yellow color is made from sandalwood paste or turmeric and is traditionally associated with wisdom and prosperity. The red “Om” symbol is imprinted over the third eye chakra and is the most sacred syllable in Hinduism, representing ultimate consciousness. I love this photo!!! 
Varanasi: At Ganga Aart at the Dashashwamedh Ghat there were seven elevated wooden planks draped in saffron colored cloth and topped with brass lamps, incense, and flowers. Seven young Buddhist priests lead the ceremony. The priests moved in synchronization, facing the river and used various items including: large incense sticks, brass lamps (with 108 small flames), conch shells, and peacock feathers to honor the life-giving and soul-purifying power of the Ganges River. 
Varanasi: We stayed at another Taj Hotel and this one provided rose petal foot soaks during nightly turn down service. I really enjoyed this hotel and I wished we had an extra day there as they were many activities on-property which I would have liked to take part in.
Up Next: Our group flies from Varanasi to Kolkata where we board a riverboat for a 8-day cruise along the Ganges River.
- Note: I learned after I returned from India that photographing at Manikarnika Ghat (crematorium) is typically forbidden or at least frowned upon due to the sacred nature of this site. We were not told this by our guides during our tour and I thought I was OK photographing at this location. I debated about whether to include these photos in this blog post and ultimately decided to include them, but I understand others may feel differently about this decision.
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