Chickpea Part Un: Initial Impressions of European Vanlife

We have kicked off our training wheels and departed from the most adorable gite in Auvers-sur-Oise, France. We have 1000 km of driving under our belt and we are starting to get into a good rhythm. Our first impressions of Chickpea (our new van), France and #vanlife France are below.

Overall, we both agree we couldn’t have found a more perfect 2nd van for ourselves than Chickpea. She is not without her own quirks, but she is sturdy, well-designed and quite comfortable for her small size. We are averaging 28.8 mpg. Safety:  The van has pretty much every safety feature that was available including 360 degree cameras. Due to360-degreew roads and super tall curbing, the proximity sensors are constantly going off, so we are just getting used to that, but we still feel they are a valuable feature. Stuff: The start-up experience would have been much more difficult if we had not had experience traveling in Tofu. We purchased many items in the US and brought them over in 3 large sized Home Depot moving boxes. If we would have had to buy all of those things in France, we would still be shopping for them. It takes so much longer to shop and find items due to our lack of reading the French language. Organization: After picking up the van, I was a bit concerned about how I was going to fit all of the “stuff” I brought over from our home as the actual storage is smaller than expected and uniquely shaped with shallow depths and sloping backs. I channeled my Dad (who was a packing Master) and dug deep for some Houdini contortion inspiration and ended up finding a home for everything in the end.  The biggest boon was fitting in 2 new e-Brompton folding bikes and Tony’s road bike under the bed in the “garage”. The road bike is a few inches too long and extends into the hallway, but it is totally worth it to have all 3 bikes inside the van from a security perspective. I am still working on (and reworking on) the final organizational layout, but everything is falling into place. Can I just say I have a weird fondness for baskets, bags and bins! Interior Layout: The bed is smaller than the bed in Tofu, but it is firm and comfortable. We love having the dinette at the front of van so we can open the side door and enjoy the view and lovely cool breezes. The 3 skylights add so much natural light (but I think this will also add heat in the summertime ☹) to the van. Having a dedicated bathroom with shower is something we now realize we want, even if it is just a wet bath. The negatives are the kitchen was designed by a man who has never cooked. The sink is teeny, tiny in size, there is absolutely no counterspace for even a bowl or chopping board, the freezer barely fits an ice cube tray and the Dometic cooktop (hob) and sink combination, which is very popular in European vehicles, sucks (pardon my French…pun intended). I like to clean and cook at the same time, but not with this setup as the open flame is inches from my hands if I am doing dishes in the teeny, tiny thimble sized sink while I am cooking. Our workaround is just to make more simple meals that use less pots, pans and dishes. Exterior Systems:  Tony is still getting used to the cassette toilet as he is the Sanitation Engineer of this relationship. Infrastructure is in place everywhere to empty the cassette, but it is still not our favorite. We have an electronic valve for controlling our gray water. We drive over a grate and then can open the valve without getting out of the van. Pretty nice! Charging: There are very few 12V and 230 V charging ports in this vehicle and the ones we do have are not in ideal locations (I am looking at you, 230 V shaver socket in the cabinet in the bathroom and you 12V socket directly above the kitchen sink). I ordered and added every charging port available as an option and it is still minimally adequate. I plan to add a different type of port in the sleeping area when we return in the Fall. Overall, we are delighted with Chickpea, quirks and all.

Our first impressions of France are very positive. I have been to France before, but Tony has not. Frenchies: We were both keenly aware of the common American stereotypes that “French do not like Americans” or “French are rude” or “French people are not friendly or welcoming”.  We have found all of these to be completely unfounded and 100% not true in our experience. French people are more formal, reserved and private than most Americans, so my theory is this is reason for the rude, unfriendly and unwelcome stereotypes. All the French people we have met have been kind and very helpful to us. We don’t speak French (but we still try!) and even with the language barrier we have not felt uncomfortable or unwanted here. Thank the heavens for Google Translate. Food: Since we eat plant-based and don’t really drink much, if any, alcohol, restaurants are a challenge for us. We cook most of our own meals and occasionally eat at a vegan restaurant in larger cities which have been quite good. There are supermarkets everywhere, but we have tried to purchase as much as we can from the local farmer-style markets. It took us a minute to remember we have to put a coin in to unlock the shopping cart and also that we need to weigh our own produce in the produce department before taking it to the register (don’t ask how we know this one. Oops!). Food costs at the grocery store are not much different than home as long as we don’t buy a lot of packaged or imported products. We did splurge on a jar of peanut butter and a bottle of maple syrup that cost almost as much as the rest of our groceries. We have eaten some of the best strawberries of our life on this trip. Busyness: We are still in the “shoulder” season for travel, but we are finding most places still quite busy.  We had to scramble for campsites recently when there was the May 8th (V-E Day) and Ascension Day (May 9th) national holiday back-to-back resulting in many French taking a long weekend. The Frenchies are back to traveling, for sure. Population Density: France is about the same size as Texas, but with 68 million people versus 30 million people in Texas and we can feel the increased density here. Shopping: There are very few big box chain stores once we left the Paris area. An occasional McDonalds, but not much else. Lots of small vendors and small businesses.  Smokers: The one big negative in France for us is the number of smokers. We have seen many people vaping versus smoking, but there are still a lot of smokers. Our observation is that the smokers are mainly men over 65 and women under 35, not sure why this would be? Animals: Another random observation is that all of the dogs we have seen have been purebreds, we haven’t seen any shelter dog breeds or even any stray dogs. Also, we have hardly seen any wildlife except for birds. Not even a squirrel or deer even in countryside. Police:  We have been surprised as to the amount of police presence in some of the cities and at tourist attractions. Mainly we have seen the Gendarmerie (military national police who have law enforcement responsibilities) and the municipal police but a lot of them. We did also see 12 fully kitted military commando-looking soldiers patrolling downtown Strasbourg while we were there. We did not expect this level of military/law enforcement in France.

Vanlife in France is a dream. Campsites: It is very RV friendly with campsites and parking everywhere and with clear signage. We have lots of camping options in France from no service parking lot style camping to full-service campgrounds. We have stayed at all different types but prefer what are known as “Aires” and especially like the Camping-Car locations which has its own app and access card. One other aspect of vanlife in France that we like are that there are no campfires in the campgrounds. This is a huge positive for us as we dislike US campgrounds that are thick with smoke from 50 different fires and make everything smell like an ashtray. Some of the campgrounds we have stayed at have partnered with a local bakery and bring fresh bread and pastries to our campsite each morning. The French take their bread very seriously. Roads:  Cars are smaller and we have (thankfully) not seen a single pick-up truck. We are getting used to the narrow roads and are so thankful we selected a smaller campervan that is <6 m in length and < 3.5 tons. There are certainly many larger vehicles on the road, including huge expedition trucks, but driving something that large is beyond our skillset.  There are many streets in the countryside in France that only allow vehicles <3.5 tons and we would have missed a lot had we elected for the slightly larger and heavier campervan that we considered before selecting Chickpea. We made the right decision!  Tolls: Tolls are expensive in France as they are run by private companies. We have paid many tolls ranging from a few dollars up to $35. The self-service pay booths have a high and a low payment option, so it has been easy for us to just tap and go. Road signage: There are very few stop signs, even fewer stoplights as mainly there are round-abouts. I mean lots and lots and lots of round-abouts. Initially, we weren’t fans, but after a few weeks we have changed our opinion and now think they are genius. There are also lots of speed humps and other obstacles to keep the speed of vehicles down. The urban planners in US need to come to Europe for some re-training and a philosophy shift that the US shouldn’t revolve around wide roads with high speeds for cars and little infrastructure for bikes and pedestrians. Laundry: Laundry has been very easy as there are several paid washing machines in many of the supermarket parking lots. Throw in a load of clothes and then go in and do our shopping.  Internet: Our internet has been working great. We use Google Fi Unlimited Plus plan which gives us unlimited data and texting almost anywhere in the world. We have used it for 6 years now and it has worked brilliantly here in France, but flawlessly in Costa Rica, Argentina and even when we went to Rwanda. Just turned on our phone and it works. We tether our tablet and laptop to our connected phone when needed and that also works brilliantly. Apps: We have been restricted from downloading non-US apps while we have been here. Some of the apps are needed (i.e. the Mercedes app) so I spent an afternoon researching and I have finally found a work-around and I can now happily download all of the apps I need including the Mercedes, Android Auto and laundry apps. Yeah. It’s the little things that are the big things.

Overall, we are off to a great start. All systems are working. We are moving super slow and we have decided to throw our proposed itinerary out the window and just wander. We think of what we are doing as long-term travel, not a vacation. We actually enjoy taking part in the everyday tasks as much as we do seeing the tourist sights. The hardest part of this experience is the inability to have meaningful conversations with people due our lack of speaking French, Spanish or German. Everyone is kind and most people do know some English, but it is still hard to have meaningful dialogue.

Onwards!

Next Stop: Alsace region of France


Discover more from The Tofu & Chickpea Scramble

Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.

3 comments


  1. thank you for this! I read the whole thing and enjoyed it thoroughly. 1000 km already? That is incredible you guys are moving along. No counterspace for cooking.? That sounds awful ….! strawberries, fruit, farmers market fruits, olive oil, breads? I hope they have some gluten-free choices!

  2. Wonderful adventure. Thanks for allowing me to tag along. (As for your sky lights. Find a piece single black out drape panel at a resale shop. sew one side of Velcro on the drape and put the stick portion of Velcro on the edge of the sky light. Apply when the heat builds.) Happy ventures in France!

    • Thanks for the tip. We have screens and a black out shade built it, but the sticker on the skylight says not to use the blackout shade when hot/sunny as it will damage the acrylic window. Sounds dumb not to be able to block the sun with the blackout screen when hot, doesn’t it? I decided to split the difference and use 1/2 screen and 1/2 blackout Nd hope for the best. #rebel

Leave a Reply